What have you done to your bike today?

Karate Monkey said:
I'm still working through the rear set, but I switched back to Shimano metal in the front. It has the ultimate pucker stop that I feel like the MTX pads just don't have. I will grant that the MTX pads are way quieter with most of the same power. To be fair, I see why racey people tend to gravitate towards the resin/ceramic compounds, as they tend to be consistent from application to release.

Incidentally, I've also switched away from the finned brake pads, because I feel like they just don't heat up enough in our area. If I head to real elevation (extended downhills), I'll consider adding them back in.
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Similar views you have with regards to bite and fins, but went with the Discobrake Ceramic. Big like.
 
Karate Monkey said:
I'm still working through the rear set, but I switched back to Shimano metal in the front. It has the ultimate pucker stop that I feel like the MTX pads just don't have. I will grant that the MTX pads are way quieter with most of the same power. To be fair, I see why racey people tend to gravitate towards the resin/ceramic compounds, as they tend to be consistent from application to release.

Incidentally, I've also switched away from the finned brake pads, because I feel like they just don't heat up enough in our area. If I head to real elevation (extended downhills), I'll consider adding them back in.
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Thanks, if I don't like these, I will take a look at the Shimano.
 
Brake pads seem to be the theme here.

Had some really bad brake fade at the end of HoH on the gravel bike. Assumed the pads were toast but seems maybe the rotors on my road mode wheels may be thinner.

Bought new pads but once I swapped back to the gravel wheels they work much better. Adjusted the rear caliper and found a stuck piston so fixed that.

still have life left in these pads. Might use a lot of it during MKF this coming weekend but my test ride yesterday they bite much much better.



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Karate Monkey said:
I'm still working through the rear set, but I switched back to Shimano metal in the front. It has the ultimate pucker stop that I feel like the MTX pads just don't have. I will grant that the MTX pads are way quieter with most of the same power. To be fair, I see why racey people tend to gravitate towards the resin/ceramic compounds, as they tend to be consistent from application to release.

Incidentally, I've also switched away from the finned brake pads, because I feel like they just don't heat up enough in our area. If I head to real elevation (extended downhills), I'll consider adding them back in.
Click to expand...
Funny, I run MTX red in the front, Shimano metallic in the rear. I feel they are pretty similar. I'd probably just stick with Shimano metallic after I wear through my MTX spares as they are significantly cheaper.

I do have long descents and don't get heat soak without finned pads. I do run 2mm Magura rotors though and have 4-piston Shimanos. I mostly grab a handful a brakes in spots vs dragging so that may have a lot to do with it.
 
Since my full sus XC bike is down at the moment (see above) & I have a race coming up in a couple weeks...I swapped a bunch of parts to the hardtail.

Swapped over:
Wheels/tires: Elite carbons w/ Rekon/Rekon Race 2.4's
Drivetrain: GX AXS, 12-52 rainbow cassette - Can't quite eliminate all the rasping & get the shifting smooth so may just throw mechanical back on. This rear mech has a lot of miles on it & may be on its last legs...
Cockpit: 50mm stem, lower bars
120mm SID w/ 3P lockout & XT 4-pot...I'm not switching the rear brake...just gonna leave the 4-pot Deore.
Still need to move the power meter crankset over.
Hoses/cables aren't the neatest...but it's temporary till I get the other bike back together.

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IMG_5175.jpeg
 
kramonut said:
Since my full sus XC bike is down at the moment (see above) & I have a race coming up in a couple weeks...I swapped a bunch of parts to the hardtail.

Swapped over:
Wheels/tires: Elite carbons w/ Rekon/Rekon Race 2.4's
Drivetrain: GX AXS, 12-52 rainbow cassette - Can't quite eliminate all the rasping & get the shifting smooth so may just throw mechanical back on. This rear mech has a lot of miles on it & may be on its last legs...
Cockpit: 50mm stem, lower bars
120mm SID w/ 3P lockout & XT 4-pot...I'm not switching the rear brake...just gonna leave the 4-pot Deore.
Still need to move the power meter crankset over.
Hoses/cables aren't the neatest...but it's temporary till I get the other bike back together.

View attachment 279408View attachment 279409
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Nice garage home gym setup!
 
kramonut said:
Since my full sus XC bike is down at the moment (see above) & I have a race coming up in a couple weeks...I swapped a bunch of parts to the hardtail.

Swapped over:
Wheels/tires: Elite carbons w/ Rekon/Rekon Race 2.4's
Drivetrain: GX AXS, 12-52 rainbow cassette - Can't quite eliminate all the rasping & get the shifting smooth so may just throw mechanical back on. This rear mech has a lot of miles on it & may be on its last legs...
Cockpit: 50mm stem, lower bars
120mm SID w/ 3P lockout & XT 4-pot...I'm not switching the rear brake...just gonna leave the 4-pot Deore.
Still need to move the power meter crankset over.
Hoses/cables aren't the neatest...but it's temporary till I get the other bike back together.

View attachment 279408View attachment 279409
Click to expand...
Looks really light. What’s it weigh when race ready?
 
I bought an Advent X 2.0 rear derailleur when I bent my first one, because some prick in Califon knocked my bike over, on purpose, at D&D. Anywho, the 2.0 version clears a 46t cassette, so I bought that.

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So now Gary has a 32x46 low gear. Which is like a 60t because the 26inch wheels 🐒

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I just noticed sealant bleeding through the sidewall. Here comes the question. Now I am running a 2.25 on the front and back on my Ti hardtail.
Can I put a 2.4 on the rear while still running the 2.25 up front? I have a couple of good 2.4 tires sitting in the garage.
 
John the Plumber said:
I just noticed sealant bleeding through the sidewall. Here comes the question. Now I am running a 2.25 on the front and back on my Ti hardtail.
Can I put a 2.4 on the rear while still running the 2.25 up front? I have a couple of good 2.4 tires sitting in the garage.
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Sealant bleeding through doesn't mean the tire is done. But if the rear is worn out, move the 2.25 on the front to the rear and put the 2.4 up front.
 
JDurk said:
Sealant bleeding through doesn't mean the tire is done. But if the rear is worn out, move the 2.25 on the front to the rear and put the 2.4 up front.
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Thanks. I thought of that, was the right way but I was wondering if the higher volume tire would be smoother on the back because it is a Ti hardtail.
Also, on the tire looks like there is some cracking on the sidewall.
 
John the Plumber said:
Thanks. I thought of that, was the right way but I was wondering if the higher volume tire would be smoother on the back because it is a Ti hardtail.
Also, on the tire looks like there is some cracking on the sidewall.
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On my rigid SS, 2.6 Rekon or Forekaster up front, 2.4 Rekon on the rear. I always go with a higher volume tire in the front for lower pressure and better traction. Rear, I'll squeeze the largest that will fit.
 
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