Cleat removal?
- Thread starter numbnut
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I Ride Bikes
Well-Known Member
I would start with the obvious of soaking with penatrating oil for a few days and try again. Last resort drill out the heads of the screws to remove the inside plate. If i can remember correctly those top plates come with the cleats.
GratefulRider
Active Member
Drill or Dremel the bolt heads. Replace the mounting plate from the inside of the shoe.
Though after 8+ years, you might be better off heading to the LBS and picking up a new pair of kicks.
Though after 8+ years, you might be better off heading to the LBS and picking up a new pair of kicks.
CommandoStyle
Well-Known Member
Go to the hardware store with the shoe and ask for an easy-out. It's sort of like a reverse threaded drill bit (but not really).
1. Clean out the heads of the hex really good. Get in there with a small pick or a eyeglass screwdriver and make sure all of the dirt is out
2. spray some penetrating lubricant like pb blaster, etc onto the back side of the screw threads from inside the shoe and let it soak
3. make sure the hex wrench you use is in good shape and that when you put it into the hex head it is fully engaged. If you cant turn it out this way, try putting the hex wrench in a vice and turning the shoe
Give that a try...I wouldnt resort to drilling out the screws until you do something like strip the bolts out.
2. spray some penetrating lubricant like pb blaster, etc onto the back side of the screw threads from inside the shoe and let it soak
3. make sure the hex wrench you use is in good shape and that when you put it into the hex head it is fully engaged. If you cant turn it out this way, try putting the hex wrench in a vice and turning the shoe
Give that a try...I wouldnt resort to drilling out the screws until you do something like strip the bolts out.
This is exactly how I do it.
Most of the time, cleaning out all the dirt with a dental pick and using a good allen is all it takes
GratefulRider
Active Member
J- I've done the create a slot/flat head method but every time the bolt just snaps and I wind up removing the inner plate.
I think the real solution is stainless hardware instead of the brass. Like selling used tires...Every few months I remember to search for this but I've yet to follow thru.
Anyone need tires?
I think the real solution is stainless hardware instead of the brass. Like selling used tires...Every few months I remember to search for this but I've yet to follow thru.
Anyone need tires?
michael.su
Master of the Pawpaw
That's a tough call. Stainless is not very hard. (tough but not hard) Stainless screws tend to strip if you look at them funny as well. Regular steel screw heads are hardest so hold their drive head shape best, but of course other than preventative coatings, you have rust to contend with...
The other deal with using stainless hardware is that electrolysis is often a problem when mixing dissimilar metals and will lock the screw in anyway. (the cleat and backing plate are both plain steel right?)
might be best to just add some anti-seize grease or other when initially installing the cleat to keep it from locking all together.
I don't wear clipless shoes except for road (and that's not very often) so I haven't had this issue. Anyone ever try anti-seize compound for this application? I bet you would never have stuck screws again.
enginerd21
New Member
This happens most of the times I change cleats or shoes. You can just use a Grabit to back out the bolts. If it is really stuck, let some WD-40 soak in first.
that VW guy
Member
Just FYI, WD40 is a (W)ater (D)isplacement spray, not a penetrating oil. Next time, try something like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, etc.
Ian F
Well-Known Member
I always put a dab of copper anti-sieze on both the threads and the chamfer when installing cleats. Usually makes getting them out a lot easier.
+1 on no stainless hardwear. I installed an aftermarket skid-plate on a car years ago and it came with the most berked up hardwear: a stainless steel, 10mm bolt with a round head and a 8mm hex socket. Oh it looked pretty under the car, but the bastards would strip 50% of the time when removing them (even after being slathered in anti-sieze during the install). Whenever I installed those plates afterwards, I trashed the provided bolts and used proper hex bolts (slathered with anti-sieze).
...grumble, grumble... rotten bastard California product designers who have never seen salt... :getsome:
+1 on no stainless hardwear. I installed an aftermarket skid-plate on a car years ago and it came with the most berked up hardwear: a stainless steel, 10mm bolt with a round head and a 8mm hex socket. Oh it looked pretty under the car, but the bastards would strip 50% of the time when removing them (even after being slathered in anti-sieze during the install). Whenever I installed those plates afterwards, I trashed the provided bolts and used proper hex bolts (slathered with anti-sieze).
...grumble, grumble... rotten bastard California product designers who have never seen salt... :getsome:
yup i put anti-sieze on all of my cleat bolts as they go in and never had a problem other than cleaning out the allen cut in the heads (which i now fix by filling them with plain candle wax, melt it out when its time to change and you have a nice clean surface to mate the allen wrench with)