What have you done to your car today?

shrpshtr325 said:
i always buy a brand name when i do wheel bearings (or anything else critical and potentially challenging to change) buy one with a good quality or end up doing the job twice in short order, i figure my time is worth way more than the price difference.


in this case moog or timken would be appropriate, i put SKF bearings on my truck last fall.
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I got the Moog because of brand name and I can get them tomorrow, plus the fact that my daughter is moving to Maine in a few weeks and I won't be close enough to fix them later. 😀

Thanks everyone, I'll let you know how it goes. Thankfully next week looks warm enough to work in the driveway.
 
Three month check on a new-to-us Land Rover I6 - no coolant or oil consumption! I cannot tolerate consuming engines. Looks like this one is a keeper.
 
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GSTim said:
These are the rear bearings for my daughter's car. 2016 Crosstrek with 68,000 miles.
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I might have posted earlier in this thread, but I replaced a rear wheel bearing on my 2012 STI last fall. That thing was stuck so badly that the bearing literally came apart before the hub would come loose from the knuckle. I ended up having to replace the hub and the knuckle, which ended up being a bit more costly but way, way easier than fighting with that hub. Granted my car had 190K on it at that point so maybe with only 68K your daughters car will hopefully be easier.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
i always buy a brand name when i do wheel bearings (or anything else critical and potentially challenging to change) buy one with a good quality or end up doing the job twice in short order, i figure my time is worth way more than the price difference.


in this case moog or timken would be appropriate, i put SKF bearings on my truck last fall.
Click to expand...
100% on not buying the no-name, but you now have to be careful on even buying the name brands. Moog was always a go-to but a lot of their production has moved overseas and is garbage. So you gotta be extra picky.

Not uncommon to buy a Left and Right and find they're totally different from each other.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
i always buy a brand name when i do wheel bearings (or anything else critical and potentially challenging to change) buy one with a good quality or end up doing the job twice in short order, i figure my time is worth way more than the price difference.


in this case moog or timken would be appropriate, i put SKF bearings on my truck last fall.
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I also do them in pairs (like I did hundreds of them, LOL)
 
GSTim said:
I got the Moog because of brand name and I can get them tomorrow, plus the fact that my daughter is moving to Maine in a few weeks and I won't be close enough to fix them later. 😀

Thanks everyone, I'll let you know how it goes. Thankfully next week looks warm enough to work in the driveway.
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Well I guess I got really lucky. Each side took less than an hour. Driver's side came off only using a chisel, passenger side I couldn't get a good spot to wedge the chisel so I did use the wailing bar tool that I bought just in case (thanks @UtahJoe !). I think since was a fairly newer car it wasn't that rusted in place. Thanks for all the support. If anyone needs the tool, I have it now, just let me know.
 
So car guys, 2014 gmc yukon xl. 140k mileage. The rear is clunking going from reverse to drive. My friedly mechanic says its the play in the carrier bearing. He believes it should last awhile if i don't beat on it.
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The owners manual calls for 75-90 synthetic gear oil. Would it help if i added a heavier oil in it? just writing this makes me believe that it won't.

(Condition of the car:
Tranny just had the touque converter replaced along with a full fluid flush and now a tranny cooler.

Engine runs good and has regular oil changes)

Also, I'm planning on changing the rear gear oil and I'll see if there's chunks in the gear oil. (also change the transfer case and front diff)
 
"Carrier Bearing" or "Center Support Bearing"? I've heard both terms used for the same component which is a support bearing in the middle of a 2-piece driveshaft. It's pretty common on vehicles with a long(ish) rear driveshaft. In most vehicles the component itself isn't very expensive - $30 to $120 on Rockauto depending on the style required and manufacturer - but sometimes they can be a bit finicky to replace. Nothing you do to the transmission or differential would have any effect on it. Did your mechanic give a reason for not replacing it?
 
Ian F said:
"Carrier Bearing" or "Center Support Bearing"? I've heard both terms used for the same component which is a support bearing in the middle of a 2-piece driveshaft. It's pretty common on vehicles with a long(ish) rear driveshaft. In most vehicles the component itself isn't very expensive - $30 to $120 on Rockauto depending on the style required and manufacturer - but sometimes they can be a bit finicky to replace. Nothing you do to the transmission or differential would have any effect on it. Did your mechanic give a reason for not replacing it?
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I wish it was the center support bearing. It's the bearing in the rear end.
 
knobbyhead said:
I wish it was the center support bearing. It's the bearing in the rear end.
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Ah... that carrier bearing... Yeah, you can probably get by with an oil change, but you definitely run the risk of damaging more the more you drive it until it's fixed.

I'd definitely put a pry-bar on the u-joints, but I'd imagine the mechanic tried that first since U-joints are a hell of a lot easier to replace than a carrier bearing in the differential.
 
Glenn Rides After 4 PM CST said:
View attachment 277679

We've been installing short blocks 3 a month since January.
We only have one engine stand for assembly of new engine.

Piston skirt recall.
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Is that the Tundra 3.4L V6? I've seen a few videos about that pop up in my YouTube feed. I can imagine after the first few it gets easier, but it still looks like a PITA job that probably doesn't have enough book hours...
 
mfennell said:
I'm starting to think maybe a crack in the fitting. I don't see anything, of course, but it wouldn't take much.

The MB parts pictures are maddening for the PS system. There are two part numbers for - apparently - the same part. One is labeled "high-pressure line" and costs $300. The other is an "expansion hose" with a slightly different part number and is $200.
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Unfortunately, it's a trait of German repair manuals... one thing to keep in mind when looking at these manuals - they were designed as a reference for already trained technicians and not as a "how-to" manual for someone not familiar with working on the cars and has access to the myriad of special tools. I've noticed this even with Bentley manuals after getting some bootleg copies of other BMW and VW TIS (Technical Information System) CDs. The Bentley manuals are pretty much a print copy of the service TIS with some slight editing. Often they will reference some obscure special tool you'll either need to buy or figure out a work-around. Often this just requires experience.

Mercedes is known for having pretty much any part you could need to repair an older model - which is nice - although sometimes it may take a while... Those parts are NOT known for being inexpensive... But compared to other manufacturers where looking for a 12-year-old part can often result in a "Sorry - you're SOL..." response, I guess it's better than nothing... but it's definitely something to be aware of when buying an older M-B.
 
Glenn Rides After 4 PM CST said:
It's a 2020 Audi Q7 3.0 turbo
Pays around 34 hours. I'm 18 in it.
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Ah... I saw the "To..." on your "stand" and initially thought it was "Toyota". I suppose 4+ days isn't "too" bad... still looks like a shit-load of work and if you get one thing wrong early in the reassembly process, you're screwed...
 
mfennell said:
I'm starting to think maybe a crack in the fitting. I don't see anything, of course, but it wouldn't take much.

The MB parts pictures are maddening for the PS system. There are two part numbers for - apparently - the same part. One is labeled "high-pressure line" and costs $300. The other is an "expansion hose" with a slightly different part number and is $200.
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New hose. Still leaks. I have a new pump on hand but nothing looks wrong with the existing one. I'm handing it to my friend Drew. "Please fix this". It needs an alignment anyway.
 
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